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Thread: LETOV SLUKA

  1. #71
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Hi Bill/Gerry. Yip I surprised myself when she cut out. But it glides so well. There was no panic to push the stick forward. I didnt look at any instrument after the cut out. After I was certain the prop had stopped and was not to turn fast enough to give me control. (it did turn jerkily for a very short time as the wind pushed it) I just spent the time from 800ft picking the field and setting it up for a gently landing. I know they say you shouldnt do a sharp turn but the filed i wanted was passing on my left so i had to turn nearly 180degrees. Which was were my 800ft went. !! It was an uphill slope, couldnt have asked for a better field. OK bill on the points. Well I dont know if I have points or not !! What signs or components on the outside of the casing would tell you?....I am now thinking it could be a fuel prob. What about the priming bulb. i dont know its history, but it looks shiny enough with no cracks anywhere. But i hear there is a component inside which may move and inter block the pipe. I read this re-guarding a flex-wing prob. I had her up for 1hr today, from 9 - 10am. I was worried about all the air bubbles that were going up the pipe in front of me. Surely there shouldnt be ANY at any time eh? I have noticed these before, but only a couple of small ones and always after hitting a bit of turbulence. But todays was the worse i have seen them, which one of the reasons for only 1hr flight. They were coming all the time even when flying calm. And I was thinking on both times she failed it was turning left for finals, so maybe the internal component moved in the priming bulb and blocked pipe. I cant remember what bubbles if any where in front of me then, I was looking out, lining it up on the runway. So I've ordered a new one of these. A modified one from PMA. BTW I checked the plugs and all seem OK.

  2. #72
    Diamond geezer Banned500 Club
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    LETOV SLUKA

    The primer bulb is fitted with a one way valve, there was a few faulty ones around a couple of years ago. Once you are primed though, there should not be any bubbles going along the fuel lines. It suggests that the system is sucking in air at some point. The favourite for this is one of the joins clipped with a Jubilee clip. If clip has been moved and the pipe is in anyway hardened it will not reseal well, if in doubt cut it back or replace the pipe. You can check by useing the bulb to pressurise the system and waggle the pipe near any joint to see if you can reproduce the bubbling, that will help to track it down. The other cause that springs to mind is that should the bubbles show in the pipe between the Mickuni pump and the carb you may need to service the Mickuni, this is dead easy and the service kit is available from Skydrive.
    Also if you have wear on your carb neadles in the groove you should fit the tiny O ring to the neadle that you will also get from Skydrive. This just pushes down onto the top of the neadle and prevents the circlip from moving. it is a good idea to check if you have these fitted anyway just to prevent wear from taking place
    Good Luck
    Ginge

  3. #73
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Hi Ginge.

    Yes I am replacing all the fuel lines from the tank to carb, some of them again. I am going to use the clear 6mm plastic pipe advertised by LAS as used for microlights on "some parts of the fuel system". Not sure what "certain parts" means. Surely if its suitable for some its suitable for all parts, No.?....OK on the hardening of the ends of the existing pipe. Well yes we took the tank out and drained it, to look for debris, none was found. So maybe the re-connection of the pipe there was not tight enough. OK on the fuel pump. Yip I've just got the repair kit for that & the carb socket to the engine. So i'll do those this afternoon. Just seen though, you can get a new carb from LAS for the price of the repair kit i got from skydrive !. I have also just found out the length of the vacumn pipe from crankcase to pump is specified in the engine build paperwork i have. Its 150mm I must check this as i just cut a suitable length of pipe for this and think it mihgt be a bit longer. Is this length critical do you think?.. Is the bore of this pipe different from the other fuel lines. Is it 4mm ?...Unfortuneatly the carb is not an area i like working on, as i dont really know what i'm doing there!!....

  4. #74
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Right Jeremy, I see now why its clear up to the filter and black rubber type after that. OK I'll stick to that. Just got the carb socket rubber fitted today. Maybe its just me but the carb did feel a lot "stiffer" on the engine, takes more force to move the assembly.

    What is the orientation of the aerials on commercial jets? Using the hand held radio at home with its whip antenna. I get the local airports' information service better horizontally than veritically. Is it jus for convienence that all microlights use vertical, because i was thinking of mounting a half wave dipole under the cabin of the Sluka. In fact i'm going to try it out someday, by taping a thin wire dipole to the underside and comparing the standard vertical whip i have on the boom behind the wing. Have you any thoughts on this?

  5. #75
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    LETOV SLUKA

    OK Jeremy. Have read article.Very good.I have now food for thought. Many thanks.

  6. #76
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    LETOV SLUKA

    A Wee quick question for you Jeremy, I was on the X-air threads and everybody is talking about mph for their speed. Is the x-airs' ASI calibrated in mph. My Sluka is in knots. Is everybody in the UK not suppose to use knots?

  7. #77
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Yes, thanks for that Jeremy.. I have a problem converting in my head (and even on paper!!) bewteen mph and knots. Its the same with the wind speeds i get on the weather web site i use for my forecasts, for GO or NO-GO flying. Accuweather. I wish they would give knots too.

  8. #78
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Bill or Jeremy. This problem I had with the engine stopping in flight. What about this thought. Could it be the fact that I have the Carb Heat on permanently ?... The both times the engine stopped, was after a flight and the plane was about to turn onto final approach for the field. So the engine is hot after the cruiseing flight and then the power is brought back to loose height/speed. Now the engine is running leaner due to the lower revs, and more air in the petrol/air mix going into the carb. (and the engine temps would be rising in this power back mode - yes?) The electric heater is heating the carb body, would it be enough to evaporate some of the petrol in the mix, making the mixture even leaner , thus not enough petrol in the mixture to keep the engine going, or does the heater not heat the mixture this much?...enough to evaporate the petrol out of the mixture ?......This idea was put to me by another pilot at the field today. He was very concerned I have the heater on continuously. But it dose mention in the blurb for fiting it that this can be an OK case. You said you have yours on continuously too Bill , any thoughts. Is this idea rubbish.>>>>>

  9. #79
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Victor,
    I don't think the heater is your problem as it barely keeps the body temperature above ambient conditions. The engine certainly won't be gulping in large volumes of warm air. When my engine felt like it was going to stop on throttle back, I'm sure it was a (late) timing problem. Late timing gives increased CHT's. What are your HT leads like.
    It's so long ago now, but I seem to remember that in the darkness of the hangar, a fellow pilot saw the occasional spark jumping to earth from one of mine. I suppose at cruise revs your spark could conceivably be stronger than at idle.
    Sometimes you get to the stage where you want to renew every ignition component in order to rule out the ignition system. Keep talking and I'm sure we can get around this one way or the other. Jeremy, as you will have already seen, is a major asset within this organisation and I'm sure he can sort it out or put you in touch with someone who can.

  10. #80
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    LETOV SLUKA

    Thanks to both of you. Unfortuneately I am replacing all the fuel components at the moment. I have replaced the fuel pump diaphram and gasket, but of course couldnt see anything wrong with the old ones !..and am now in the middle of replacing all the fuel lines and the priming bulb, right back to the tank. OK, I am also replacing the plugs, but yes maybe the ignition system need further looking at. What is the first ignition component then I should change, apart from the plugs. The coils are expensive, can the leads and caps be changed with out changing the coils, or are they all internally connected, and must be changed as a whole? What other componets are there?
    Can you tell from the picture what type of ignition I have.

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